Orthodox ice bathing
Photo essay: At Neva River, Orthodox Christian Russians jump in the freezing water to get closer to God.
«Does anyone here speak English?»
We are at a beach on the banks of Neva River. On this Friday in January in St. Petersburg, it’s freezing cold and the normally flooding river is covered by thorny blocks of ice
A queue longer than one hundred meters has formed on the beach. It begins from the four dressing tents, specially built for this event, and ends at the Peter and Paul Fortress. At the side of the queue, sweets and soup are served. A children’s group is singing Russian pop music with playback. «Strong Russia – Healthy nation» is the headline on the stage.
It is «Kreschenie» – a memorial for Jesus’ baptism, which is a part of the Orthodox Christmas celebration. Hundreds and hundreds of Russian men and women are standing impatiently with their towels in their hands waiting for the ice bath.
Russian people are strong. Norwegians are not.
We’re here without a translator and after hearing «njet» a few times, finally, from somewhere in the middle of the line, we hear an answer: «Da»
Nick is a 39-year-old industry worker at the Heinz factory in the outskirts of St. Petersburg. Although he wears an English football hat and claims to speak English, it’s challenging to understand one another.
It’s now sunset at Neva and Nick is still trying to explain why he’s choosing to go under the ice during this January afternoon.
«I’m Christian. Every Orthodox Russians does this,» he says.
Even though the temperature is way below minus ten degrees, Nick insists he isn’t cold. He has already been in the line for an hour.
«Russian people are strong. Norwegians are not,» he says with a clear hint toward the Norwegian journalists shaking their heads.
So now it is time for the big moment. He goes through the check point and disappears in one of the two dressing tents for men. Off goes the big winter jacket, the shirt and the jeans. On go the blue bathing shorts. The Russian Orthodox crucifix remains around his neck as he walks toward the water.
He makes the sign of the cross, takes a deep breath and dives under, watched by four men. They stand on a temporary wooden platform on top of holes in the ice. Hanging by the river is a picture of John the Baptist and Jesus at the Jordan River. This is what Nick has been longing for. After exactly fifteen seconds in the water, he’s smiling from ear to ear.
«This is a gift from me to you,» he says, insisting his towel be taken back to Norway.
«Are you cold?»
«No,» Nick answers with chattering teeth before he disappears inside the dressing tent.
